Elephants, Tigers, and Delhi Belly, Oh My....

The last few days have been momentous, miserable, and spiritually powerful! We have been unable to post, due to me becoming very, very sick in Agra. It started with a bit of mild gastrointestinal distress, and ended with a fever of 102, nausea, chills, stomach cramps, and a trip to the doctor. I received two injections in my rear, and a lot of pills, and now 36 hours later, I am feeling back to my normal self. I had hoped to blog every night, but the sickness just made this impossible. Mostly, I was extremely worried that I would not be well in time for Asha day. As Asha day is tomorrow, I am beyond relieved that I am feeling better and could even stomach some rice and chapati today. Thank you Dr. Gupta! I became ill the evening before we were to visit the Taj Majal, and so Kirk and I decided it would be best if I stayed in the hotel room and rested, instead of seeing the Taj. This was a difficult decision to make, as the Taj was the one thing in India I wanted to see (aside from Asha of course.) But the truth is, I felt so lousy, I really didn't care all that much. When Kirk returned from the Taj, and my health had worsened, he rushed me to the doctor. After the doctor visit, we had to make the 5 hour drive to Delhi, to catch a flight to Kolkata, to take a car to the hotel. It was, well... pure hell. To be sick and in need of a toilet and having to travel is just awful. I have to say that Kirk is a lifesaver and a godsend. He packed up all of our belongings, took me to the doctor, administered my medicines, conversed with our driver, checked us in at the airport, all while I sort of hung on to his arm, not really able to keep my head up. He took wonderful, loving care of me, and I am so grateful to have him by my side.

It was also extremely touching to see how so many Indian people were concerned for my welfare. In the hotel and airport, when it was obvious I wasn't doing well, hands were offered, wishes and advice given. Despite feeling lousy, I felt very taken care of all around. I have noticed that this is very cultural. When there is a traffic jam, an accident, or when someone is hurt, people step in to help. I felt touched by the kindness again and again.

We have spent the past week with a tour company called Trinetra Tours, and I would highly recommend them. Our driver Rana went above and beyond to take care of us, and by the end of the trip, he felt like a good friend. He invited us to come visit India again and stay in his home near the Himalayas. We invited him to California to stay in our home. Traveling through India by car is such an interesting and unique experience. First off, horns are used all the time, to signal that you are passing someone, or move out of the way, or don't step out in the road, or move your camel/cow/bull. Cows sit in the middle land of the road, between the two currents of traffic. There are really no lanes, people just weave in and out as is necessary. As Rana puts it, "they drive like a snake." Rana also said that only three things are needed to drive in India, "Good horn, good brakes, good luck." Let's just say, I'm glad Rana was driving and not me.

Right now it is wheat harvest time, and everywhere we looked we saw women in brightly colored saris in the fields. Here are some pictures from the road.

In India, the trucks ask you to use your horn, very different than the US.

After leaving Delhi, Kirk and I traveled to Neemrana Fort, which is a gorgeous and lush oasis. We stayed here one night before traveling on to Jaipur.

In Jaipur we visited a block printing warehouse, and I was assisted in making my own block printing design!

I have often imagined Asha day with mehindi on my hands. At the Amber Fort in Jaipur, a very friendly woman made art on my skin.

The Amber Fort, and the elephant ride! Below is the long line of elephants, slowly making their way to the entrance gate. Each female elephant is restricted to 3 trips per day, in order to protect their health and longevity.

The water palace in Jaipur.

I loved the mehindi so much, I got it on my feet as well!

On a tiger safari!!

On our second safari, a most magical event occurred. We had been looking for a tiger for several hours. Our jeep driver was very patient, and would spend 20 minutes at a watering hole waiting to see if a tiger would show. It was late in the day, around 6pm, and most of the other jeeps had left the park. We were sitting in our jeep, just waiting, when all of a sudden the deer in the area sent out a warning call. It raised the hairs on the back of my neck. Then another warning call came, and we could see the deer running in our direction. We all scanned the trees, straining our necks, hoping for the elusive striping of orange and black. And then in the distance, I spotted it, not by its color, but by its regal and powerful walk. A tiger, walking slowly and elegantly among the trees. I pointed, and we all gave stifled yells of delight. The tiger walked toward us, head held high, king of the jungle. It was so magical, I was moved to tears. The tiger was within 15 feet of our jeep. I could see the muscles in his shoulders, and the whiskers on his face. All I could say, over and over, was "wow, this is amazing. That tiger is really big."

Mongoose in the morning.

Baby monkey and her mama.

After leaving Rathambhore, we headed to Agra and visited the Red Fort. I was already feeling sick at this point, so I ended up sitting in the shade while Kirk and the guide finished the tour. This entire fort is made of red sandstone.

And of course, the Taj Mahal. Pictures taken by Kirk, to show to me, so I wouldn't feel so bad about missing it.

We arrived in Kolkata last night, and as the wheels of the plane touched the ground, Kirk and I looked at each other and just smiled. Kirk said to me, "We're in the city where Asha was born." We cannot believe we are here! We checked into the Kenilworth, which feels like a kind of right of passage, because many of the other families adopting through Dillon have also stayed here. It felt so good, and so right, to be here, so close to Asha. We slept very, very well, and awoke refreshed to spend the day with a friend, of a friend's parents who live here in Kolkata. We had never met them before, but had communicated through email, and from the moment we met them, we felt completely welcomed and taken care of. Jolly volunteers for two creches, or schools, that operate in the slums and provide schooling, food, and care to "slum children." The organization Jolly works with also provides legal advocacy, and weaving instruction, to the mothers of these children. She asked if we would like to see the two schools, and meet the children, and we happily obliged. We first visited the school in the worst part of the slums. As we entered, the children were just finishing meal time.

After many namastes, and hellos, the children were gathered and began to sing a song they had practiced many times. They sang We Shall Overcome, first in English, then in Hindi, then in Bengali. As I sat and listened, I became overcome with emotion. The tears just rolled down my face, and I felt so grateful, just so completely grateful, for the gift of being there in that moment. What a powerful song for these children to sing, that they will overcome the circumstances that they were born in to, that they can have a hope and future. And also, this song holds a deeper meaning for me. You see, in the last years of her life, my beloved Grandma would sing this song with her long time companion Peter, each night before he went to bed. She would sit by his side, and sing softly, and he would sing along with her. After Peter died, my Grandma would sing this song every night with my Aunt Peg, over the phone. It is my Grandma's song, and she was there with me in that room full of hope and children. I couldn't help thinking, that if Asha's birth mother hadn't made the ultimate sacrifice, and placed Asha in the safe hands of the children's home, would Asha be among these children singing right now?

The children in the more developed part of the slum. The teacher is coming their hair so that they look nice for the pictures.

The dedicated and devoted women who offer their time, money, and energy, so that the children receive an education, and their mothers the means to take care of themselves. Jolly, in the back row on the far right, is a truly generous and loving spirit. After a visit to the schools, she and her husband took us shopping and helped us to buy Indian outfits for Asha, a salwaar kameez for myself, and two shirts for Kirk. They then took us to their lovely home, and served us a Bengali lunch. I was limited to rice and a little vegetables, but Kirk said the rest of the dishes were delicious! They then insisted we take a nap in the room with the air conditioner, and that we stay in their home the next time we visit Kolkata. We fell in love with them and cannot wait to see them again when we return. It felt like the perfect day to proceed Asha day.

Back in our room tonight, preparations were in full swing! 40 ayah gifts were assembled, including 40 bottles of nail polish, and hair bands. The diaper bag is packed, the outfits picked out. In the morning we will take a walking tour with a company called Calcutta Walks, and then head off to pick up Asha.

On the eve of motherhood, I am finding myself excited, overwhelmed, and so very eager to see the sweet face of my daughter. Whenever I think of her I begin to cry. I will be with her for the rest of my life. Could it be, that tomorrow, when I leave the children's home, she will be in my arms? I am overcome with joy at the thought!